¿Crees que tu madre tiraria a la basura esas prendas de las que te estas intentando deshacer?
La economía actual se centra en la sobreexplotación de los recursos naturales, asentada en un elaborado sistema de oferta que ha promulgado el redescubrimiento del consumidor y la rápida obsolescencia de los productos. Este es el caso de la industria de la moda, la segunda industria más contaminante del mundo. Los ciclos rápidos y la sobreproducción son las características clave de esta industria. Las tendencias, que caducan en pocos meses, animan a los consumidores a deshacerse de la ropa que todavía es buena y a comprar otras nuevas, lo que genera toneladas de residuos.
¿Qué hay que hacer para insinuar un cambio en la mentalidad de la gente?
En este artículo, te hablaremos de una economía alternativa en particular: la economía circular.
¿Por qué hablar de esta economía y no de otra?
Los patrones de consumo están cambiando. Hace veinte años, adquiríamos un producto de lujo, ya fuera un bolso de Chanel o un reloj Gucci con la idea de pasárselo a nuestros hijos. Hoy la cosa ha cambiado y preferimos revenderlo para recuperar la inversión inicial o para comprar algo diferente: hemos pasado de una economía de posesión a una economía de uso.
Y es que precisamente esta nueva economía textil no solo beneficiaría a las empresas, sino también a la sociedad y al medio ambiente. Sin embargo, hay siete factores clave en el debate sobre la economía circular en el mundo de la moda que aún están por aclarar:
- No contar con los consumidores para liderar la iniciativa. La industria sigue al servicio de los consumidores, muchos de los cuales valoran más el precio, la novedad, la calidad y el diseño que las consideraciones éticas de sus decisiones de compra. Por lo tanto, la industria no puede tomar la dirección de los consumidores o esperar a que cambien sus hábitos de compra.
- Algunos consumidores todavía no tienen claro el concepto de sostenibilidad. Todos en la industria (y en particular los medios de comunicación) tienen un papel importante que desempeñar para educar mejor a los consumidores.
- Considerar la posibilidad de reformular lo que significa el consumo. En muchas ocasiones quizá no es necesario comprar esa prenda nueva, y alquilarla o comprarla de segunda mano es una mejor opción. Este es el caso de los uniformes o la ropa de día más básica o atemporal, que tienen valor sin importar la temporada.
- La preocupación sobre la pérdida de empleo. ¿Cómo crea la economía circular puestos de trabajo en nuevos sectores? La automatización hará que la producción sea más eficiente, pero ¿a qué coste para los trabajadores? ¿Acaso el aumento de los procesos de reciclaje compensará parte de la posible pérdida de empleos?
- No todos los consumidores pueden permitirse el lujo de estar concienciado. ¿La preocupación por la moda sostenible es algo que sólo los más adinerados pueden permitirse? No está claro hasta qué punto las compras éticamente responsables, que suelen ser más costosas, son opciones viables para los compradores con un nivel de ingresos inferior al habitual.
- La colaboración es clave. No hay una solución milagrosa para la sostenibilidad y, dado que uno solo no puede cambiar el sistema, la colaboración se convierte en algo esencial. La realidad es que necesitamos encontrar formas de crear nuevas formas de coordinación intersectorial que no existen hoy en día.
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